Rock Climbing in New Brunswick
Welsford Has a Lot of Great Climbs and Surprisingly Few Climbers
Mar 8, 2007
Maybe it's because, other than trees, New Brunswick, Canada, is not really known for a lot of things, least of all climbing. Or maybe it's because, being on the east coast, it's not exactly a top destination for road trippers who usually head for the more abundant climbs of the west. Whatever the reason, it's quite possible that you could spend a few days climbing Welsford and not see a soul. And that alone is worth the visit. Add to that an excellent assortment of routes in a beautiful setting and Welsford makes for an enjoyable climbing destination.
Climbing on a Military Base
There are a couple of quirky things about Welsford starting with the fact that the actual crag is on property owned by the Canadian Forces and is home to the military base CFB Gagetown. This means you must get a pass to climb at the cliff. You can obtain it by calling 422-2000 ext 3121 and registering over the phone. This is the only minor annoyance you have to endure and one that shouldn't be skipped, especially if you plan on camping overnight. Apparently, nighttime training is conducted in the area as outlined in the following entertaining Public Service Announcement:
CFB GAGETOWN - A small group of Canadian Forces personnel will be conducting advanced training in the vicinity of Welsford. Military personnel will be practicing moving on foot by day and by night without being seen. Military personnel will be in full camouflage and will be carrying C7 service rifles with blank ammunition.
Watch Out for Goats
There are over 300 documented routes and three main climbing areas in Welsford including Cochrane Lane, which has the majority of climbs and is a great segue to the second quirky thing about climbing at Welsford: goats. As mentioned, the cliff is on military property but to get to it, you have to walk across private farm property. The owner allows access and camping, just don't park your car right at the gate to the property. He has goats that cross the road at that point and it's not uncommon for climbers to return to their cars to find the hoods covered in hoof prints and even scratched and dented.
Routes Galore
So you've survived the military and the goats and have made it to the cliff. Where to start? Beginners should head to Joe's Garage as there are some good top-roping climbs starting at 5.4. Trad climbers can find some good routes in Gollum's Cave, from easy 5.5s to a five star 5.11b classic called Leviathan. Cochrane Lane also has some excellent sport routes with more being added all the time. And for those into multi-pitch, it's not El Cap but areas like Cheekbone Corner and Amphitheatre have a couple of 2 and 3 pitch climbs with fantastic views of the surrounding area from the top. There is not enough time to cover all of the 300+ routes found at Welsford but suffice it to say, there are enough to keep you busy for days.
As climbing becomes more popular and destinations more crowded, a place like Welsford really is a hidden gem where you don't have to wait for routes or shout over ghetto blasters blaring horrible music. Plus, you get the cool experience of climbing and camping in the middle of military maneuvers, and not even knowing it.
