Northern Pakistan for Expedition Climbing

Head for the Karakoram, Still a Mountaineering Option in 2009

Jan 31, 2009 Patricia Deavoll

Despite the threat of terrorism, taking part in a mountaineering expedition to Northern Pakistan can still be a safe and viable option for climbers.

In fact, put in perspective, a climber is more at risk pursuing the sport amongst these, the highest mountains of the world, than they are from an act of terror.

For climbing in the Karakoram involves extremes of weather, the physiological effects of altitude, the risk of avalanche, long approaches...the list is endless. But the majority of Pakistanis deplore the terrorist acts of the extremist minority and the repution their country now has, and want nothing more than to provide for their families and live in peace.

The Effects of 9/11 on Mountaineering in Pakistan

Sadly post 9/11 shockwaves have decimated Pakistan's once thriving tourism industry and those who made a living from international climbing expeditions struggle to survive. To the visiting climber's advantage, there is active competition for business between the expedition out-fitters. Peak fees have also been drastically reduced the past five years by the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism in an effort to attract climbers back to the Karakoram. Any peak below 6,500m is free, and those above are charged out at 10 percent of post-9/11 costs.

Organising an Expedition to the Karakoram

Compared to climbing in India or Tibet, organising an expedition to Pakistan in relatively easy. There are many extremely professional companies willing to take on expedition logistics who will, depending on budget...

Apply for and obtain a peak fee from the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism
Clear expedition cargo through customs.
Organise the obligatory meeting with the Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Provide all accomodation and transport from the port of call to the road end prior to walking into base-camp and return.
Provide porters and a sirdar for the walk into base-camp and back.
Provide base-camp staff and equipment.
Provide high altitide porters if required

A quick search on the internet will locate these companies, but two of note are Nazir Sabir Expeditions(Islamabad) and Hunza Guides (Karimabad).

Researching a Peak in Pakistan

There is plenty of information to be had on the popular Baltoro Glacier/ K2/ Gasherbrum area, and this is where the majority of climbers head to. More interesting, and more condusive with ascending an unclimbed peak, is the area to the north and west, between the eastern reaches of the Hindu Kush and Karakoram highway. Although this region doesn't have the more famous peaks, it is remote, wild and beautiful and there are many mountains in the 6,000m - 7,000m range still to have an ascent.

The best authority on climbing in this part of NW Pakistan is German academic Wolfgang Heichel. He has published a guide to the Western Karakoram. This is in German, and is an invaluable source of photos, maps and information. It can be obtained by contacting the author.

Wolfgang Heichel, Chronique der Irshliedung des Karakoram: Teil; Western Karakoram." (Haus des Alpinisistnus, Pruaterinel Alpine Museum. 2003).

The Expedition Time-Frame for Pakistan

Climbing in Pakistan happens between the months of June and September. The length of the expedition will depend on the height of the peak and the length of the walk into base-camp. A general time-frame is to allow six weeks for a peak under 7000m and up to ten weeks for peaks in the 7000-8000m range.

Most expeditions fly into Islamabad. There is an obligatory meeting with the Alpine Club of Pakistan to discuss expedition objectives. Islamabad is also a good place to buy any "on the mountain food," although it is a good idea to bring dehydrated food from home.

From Islamabad there is a two to three day drive north up the Karakoram Highway to the start of the walk in to base-camp - a highlight in itself.It is also possible to fly to the northern towns of Gilgit or Skardu although flights are weather dependent.

The walk into base-camp, complete with porters and base-camp staff, can take up to six days depending on the remoteness of the base-camp location. It isn't uncommon to encounter porter strikes, but if the out-fitter has provided a good "guide," they should be able to deal with this. Base-camp will be anywhere between 4000- 5000m.

From there it is up to the climbing team to organise their own acclimatisation and the ascent itself, with base-camp and staff as support. At the end of the expedition there will be another meeting with the Alpine Club representatives to discuss the outcome of the expedition.

Pakistan Continues to Be a Great Mountaineering Destination

Pakistan is suffering economically from the decline in climber numbers since the war on terror. However, the quality of the climbing, the beauty of the terrain and the generosity of the people make it a wonderful mountaineering destination for 2009, despite its reputation.

The copyright of the article Northern Pakistan for Expedition Climbing in Rock Climbing is owned by Patricia Deavoll. Permission to republish Northern Pakistan for Expedition Climbing in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.