Climb Mt Tasman, New Zealand's Next Tallest Peak
A Climbing Guide for an Ascent of Aoraki/Mt Cook's Neighbour
Feb 11, 2009
Mt Tasman (3497m) lies within both Aoraki/ Mt Cook National Park and Westland /Tai Poutini National Park, sitting just north of Aoraki/ Mt Cook on the main divide of the Southern Alps. It is an impressive sight from every direction and offers a range of climbing opportunities from grade 3-plus to grade 6, according to the New Zealand system of alpine grading (1-7). Most of the routes can be accessed by flying into one of two mountain huts, but the most severe routes, which start in the "wilderness" Balfour Glacier area, must be gained by foot.
The two mountain huts are Plateau Hut (giving access to the routes on the eastern side of the main divide) and Pioneer Hut (giving access to the western slopes). Both huts can be reached by helicopter or fixed-wing plane or by walking: one long day from the road end for Plateau and two days for Pioneer.
Routes Accessed from Plateau Hut
Plateau Hut lies at 2200m on the east side of the Grand Plateau. It gives access to two main routes and is one of the "kick- off " points for getting int the Balfour Glacier. In years gone by it was possible to climb the east face of Tasman from here, but the route is now seriously threatened by seracs. However two glorious ridges lead from the Grand Plateau up to the summit of Mt Tasman, both graded 3-plus.
- Silberhorn Ridge: From the Grand Plateau head 200m up crevassed ground beneath the east face, then turn left to gain the ridge. Follow this to the summit of Mt Silberhorn. Then ascend the ice arete to the summit- a classically beautiful piece of alpine climbing.
- Symes Ridge: Access onto this ridge is either via a long and threatened traverse under the east face and up a broad gully, or from the NE side which later in the season can get cut off by crevasses. Once the ridge is gained, follow a winding arete which gradually broadens to reach the main divide. From here the ridge narrows before rising to the summit.
- Symes/ Silberhorn Traverse (3-plus): If access to both ridges is on, this is a fabulous day out!
Routes Accessed from Pioneer Hut
More ascents are made from Pioneer Hut. At 2340m elevation, the height gain from hut to summit is less (1160m) and the easiest route can be made from here. The hut is perched on a rock outcrop in the middle of the Fox Glacier neve and affords the most fantastic views out over the Tasman Sea, a mere 15km away.
There are large number of routes on this western side, of which the best are:
- The North Shoulder (3-plus): The easiest route up Mt Tasman and the most widely used. From the hut, Engineers Col is gained via Lendenfeld Peak. Steeper ice gulleys are followed to where Symes Ridge joins the main divide (the North Sholuder) and the summit is gained as for Symes Ridge.
- Centurion (5): The major crooked buttress running up to the right of the summit is capped by steep ice onto the North Shoulder. This route gives approximately 20 pitched of quality mixed climbing.
- Torres/ Tasman Traverse (4): A classic of the region. Starting from Katies Col climb up the the Torres ridge from the Balfour side. Above Torres/Tasman Col use rock ribs on the Balfour side , then follow the narrow arete upwards, which gradually broadens towards the summit. Descend via the North Shoulder. This route is long, remote and lacks escape routes. Not for the faint hearted!
The Balfour Glacier
This area is very remote, offers only hard climbing and can only be reached by foot, either by ascending Mt Silberhorn from Plateau Hut or traversing around the western slopes from Katies Col.
- The Hidden Face of the Balfour: Direct (6):A large crevass and an icefall present access problems to this lesser face. If these can be negotiated, begin up the gully left of the prominent rib, then ascend a narrow gully and a rock pitch to gain the edge of a prominent snow field. Head up steep bulging ice, then the broad gully out right.
- The Balfour Face: Orginal Route (6): On the Balfour Face proper, acend the gulley in the centre of the face, then climb the rising icewalls, trending left. Finish up 45 degree slopes to the summit.
Guide Book to the Aoraki/Mt Cook Region
Alex Palman, "Aoraki Mount Cook." NZAC (2001).This can be bought at any of the outdoor shops in the main centres, or online from the New Zealand Alpine Club. Material from this guide book has been used in this article.
Mount Tasman is known as a "climber's" mountain. There are no easy ascents -all the routes are long and require commitment. However this beautiful and dramatic peak will count as a major "tick" in any visiting alpinist's repertoire.
 |
 |
