Longs Peak Keyhole Route

A Classic Colorado Fourteener in Rocky Mountain National Park

© Bill Sassani

Longs Peak, Bill Sassani

A quick guide to climbing the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak, with specific advice for summiting this high Colorado mountain.

Longs Peak at 14,259 feet, is the tallest point in Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. Its summit can be seen for miles around, including as far east as Greeley, CO. The sheer Diamond Face draws rock climbers to test their skills, while hikers attempt to reach the top via the Keyhole Route. With a little knowledge, and an early start, it is possible to hike this classic Colorado Fourteener.

Start of the Keyhole Route

This is the standard hiking route to the summit of Longs Peak. The trail begins at the Longs Peak Ranger Station, which is south of the town of Estes Park. From the station the trail leads up to the tree-line, and into the alpine zone. Signs warn visitors to stick to the trail to prevent damage to alpine habitat, and to beware of electrical storms, a common occurrence during the summer.

Above the Tree Line

The trail continues up to a high alpine camp, with spots for tents and latrines. From this location it is possible to make out the Keyhole, which sits above an area known as the Boulder Field, an area of large rocks one must cross. At the Keyhole there is a small shelter with a plaque dedicated to Agnes Vaille, who died in 1925, attempting to climb the route in winter.

Past the Keyhole

Beyond this point the route becomes more technical as the slope drops steeply into a bowl. Yellow and red bulls-eyes mark the trail, which requires one to scramble in certain places, especially when going up an area of loose rocks to reach a corner. A little snow can make this area tricky.

The Ledge

Once rounding the corner, one is faced with a ledge and a very steep drop. Even when the trail is free of loose rocks, one should still be cautious in this section, and keep away from the edge. This section ends by scrambling through a notch and turns around another corner.

The Last Push

From here the summit is visible, with the final section of the climb consisting of sloped rock. Knowing how to rock climb will be helpful here, especially with hand and foot placements. Once on top the summit is remarkably flat, with stunning views of other mountains and Rocky Mountain National Park. Remember though that the climb is only half over, for in order for it to be a successful ascent one has to make back to the parking lot!

Things to Know

· Start early, the park website advises before 3 AM, to avoid electrical storms.

· Camping is not permitted at the Longs Peak Ranger Station. A park campground is nearby which charges $20 in the summer; $14 the rest of the year (as of 2007). Backcountry camping requires a $20 permit.

· Come prepared: layers of clothing, rain jacket and pants, food, water, a map, a first aid kit, sunglasses, and suntan lotion. A climbing helmet would be advisable as well, in case of rocks falling from above or knocked loose by other climbers.

· Wear sturdy shoes. Approach shoes with a sticky sole can be useful not only for the long hike up, but also where fancy footwork is required.

· During late fall, winter, and early spring the Park Service considers Longs Peak a technical ascent, requiring mountaineering equipment and training.

· Tell someone: Fill out the trail register before leaving the parking lot and sign out when returning.

· For more information on climbing Longs Peak, visit 14ers.com, a website with detailed descriptions, photos, and maps of the Colorado Fourteeners.


The copyright of the article Longs Peak Keyhole Route in Mountain/Rock Climbing is owned by Bill Sassani. Permission to republish Longs Peak Keyhole Route must be granted by the author in writing.


Longs Peak, Bill Sassani
       


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