Climbing in The Darrans, New Zealand
A Brief Guide to the Darran Mountains of Fiordland, New Zealand
The huge glaciers that once scoured these granite peaks have long since retreated, leaving behind a landscape of enormous rock walls, deep fiords and snow and ice-clad summits.
Thousands of tourists come every year to visit the scenery of Fiordland National Park or to walk the famous Milford Track. A growing number come to climb on the pristine diorite granite or make an ascent of Mt Tutoko (2723m), the highest peak in the region.
Weather, an Important Factor to Consider
Because of the geographical positioning of "The Darrans, " the rainfall, at 600 inches a year, is one of the highest in the world.
Despite this, there can be long spells of fine weather, usually heralded by southerly winds and cooler temperatures. These anticyclones can last up to five days, and if the climber keeps a close eye on the weather forecast, perhaps biding their time sport climbing in Wanaka three hours away, they can be in position to climb when a high pressure system arrives.
The predominant westerly winds aren't as strong as further north in the Aspiring or Mt Cook areas, and have usually died away by late summer (February and March) bringing more stability. These are the prime months to make a visit to "The Darrans"- the weather has settled and the snow has melted off the last of the alpine rock routes.
Types of Climbing in "The Darrans"
Mountaineering
Unlike climbing in more northern parts of the Southern Alps, mountaineering in The Darrrans is devoid of moraines or large glaciers. The peaks tend to be steep, technical and require the climber to be fast over a mixture of terrain. Routes on the larger peaks of the Northern Darrens are huge, with elevation gains of over 2500 metres.
Recommended:
- Talbot's Ladder/ Grave-Talbot Pass
- South East Ridge of Mt Tutoko (2723m)
- Original Route, Mt Christina (2474m)
- South Ridge of Mt Milne (2158m)
- East Ridge of North Llawrenny Peak (1925m)
- East Ridge of Mitre Peak (1638m)
Alpine Rock Climbing
This is where "The Darrans" really come into their own, due to the fantastic friction of the "diorite" granite rock.
The majority of the alpine-rock routes lie on slabby to near vertical ground and require good slab-climbing technique rather than brute strength. Double ropes are standard due to the wandering nature of the routes and to allow for abseil descents. Bring a full rack of natural gear with doubles of half-size and smaller cams.
Recommended:
- Garden Trowel Direct (21), Diamond Face, Moirs Mate
- Second Coming (26), Mates Little Brother
- Standard Route (17), North Buttress of Mt Sabre
- Labyrinth ( 22), North Face of Barrier Knob
- Shadowlands (27/A3), Sinbad Gully
Cragging
Over the past few years sport climbing has really taken off in "The Darrans" with the development of The Chasm and Babylon Crags' in the Cleddau Valley. These areas offer long sustained routes of up to grade 30 (Ewbanks Grading System) on immaculate granite rock.A single 60m rope is adequate, although a tag line can be handy for some of the longer overhanging routes.
Recommended:
- Chasm Crag: Dread Zone (24), Buster Gonad (26), Contact Neaurosis (28), Groove Armada (23), Day Tripper (24).
- Babylon Crag: Surface Tension (26), Tufa Dub (24), Project Aqua (25), Rage (30), Fuel (29), Requiem (30).
Where to Stay
The New Zealand Alpine Club "Homer Hut," situated two kilometres back from the eastern end of the Homer Tunnel is where most visiting climbers stay. There are gas stovesand a mountain radio in summer for weather forecasts. A hut warden is in residence over the summer.
Information
The New Zealand Alpine Club has produced an excellent guide book to the area.
Craig Jefferies, The Darren Mountains. NZAC (2006).
The Fiordland National Park Headquarters in Te Anau, has up to the minute information on weather, road and avalanche conditions.
Any climber who chooses the weather wisely won't fail to be impressed with the quality of the climbing and the sublime scenery in this unique part of the world.
Mt Tutoko
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