Ben Nevis

Climbing Britain's Highest Mountain

© John Watson

Jul 20, 2009
Ben Nevis Highest Mountain In Britain North Face , John Watson
Scotland and Britain's highest mountain, Ben Nevis is a popular trek and mountain climb and a must-do for every visitor to Scotland.

Ben Nevis is a giant hump-back whale of a mountain rising straight out of Loch Linnhe above the sleepy village of Fort William in Lochaber in western Scotland. Its summit stands on a plateau at 1,334 m (or 4,406 feet) and is ascended by over 100,000 trekkers a year, usually via the famous 'pony track' which winds its way up the southern flank of the mountain from the picturesque Glen Nevis. This path was built especially in 1883 to provide access to a summit meteorological observatory (now a disused ruin).

Gaelic Name and Weather Conditions for 'The Ben'

In Gaelic it is named Beinn Nibheis which has been variously translated as the 'Poison Mountain' or 'Cloudy Mountain', most people opting for the latter due to its year-round 'Scots' bonnet' of mist and cloud. 'The Ben', as it is known locally, has a fearsome reputation because of the sudden weather changes brought on by its maritime position, recording over 250 gales per year, with an average precipitation of over 4,300 mm. Despite its inclement weather systems, many ways of summiting have been found, especially via the impressive north face ridges and buttresses.

Ben Nevis Tourist Path or the 'Pony Track'

The easiest ascent is the Pony Track, which starts from the campsite in Glen Nevis, winding 2,000 feet up to the 'halfway lochan' of Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe, before steepening to climb the red scree towards the plateau and the summit near the old observatory. In summer this is a caterpillar trail of exhausted walkers, many limping down shivering, so bring good footwear and warm clothing! In cloud or mist it also requires accurate mapping and navigational skills.

Ben Nevis Ridges

There are four main ridges dividing the dark side of Ben Nevis. From right to left looking at the mountain face, these are: Castle Ridge; Tower Ridge, Observatory Ridge and the North East Ridge. These require a guide or good mountain climbing experience, as they can turn from summer to winter condition suddenly, even in June.

Tower Ridge is the longest and most famous climb in Britain, with over 600 m of actual climbing, though many of the ridge sections involve simple scrambling. It was first climbed in descent by the Hopkinson family in 1892, followed by the true first true winter ascent in 1894 by the great mountaineer Norman Collie. In winter it is significantly more difficult, with a grade of Scottish III (it is a 'difficult' grade in summer). The main impasse or difficulty is the infamous 'Tower Gap' section at the top of the route, where a large gap in the ridge – like a missing tooth – must be negotiated with puzzling delays common.

The other great ridge just to the east of Tower Ridge is Observatory Ridge, which is technically more difficult with more exposed and physical climbing leading to the old observatory on the summit. It is the more aesthetic of the ridges, though not as popular as Tower Ridge, and is a tougher Grade IV in winter conditions. It was first climbed onsight and solo (without ropes) by Harold Raeburn in June 1901 – possibly the most impressive mountaineering feat of its time and still a challenge to any accomplished climber.

Ben Nevis More Information

The mountain and its environs are now owned by the John Muir Trust which manages and oversees the delicate ecosystem and the pressure of tourism, their work and pathbuilding allowing this mighty Scottish mountain to be climbed by all. The history of climbing on the mountain can be sourced at the Scottish Mountaineering Club website.


The copyright of the article Ben Nevis in Mountain/Rock Climbing is owned by John Watson. Permission to republish Ben Nevis in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


Ben Nevis Highest Mountain In Britain North Face , John Watson
       


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