Although the highest peak, Mt Cook (3754m) is small by Himalayan standards, New Zealand's maritime climate and southern position mean the mountains are heavily glaciated - in fact several glaciers run almost to sea level. The most heavily glaciated areas are around the Mt Cook and Mt Aspiring regions and these are two of the most popular areas for mountaineering.
The Main Areas for Mountaineering
There are three main areas in the Southern Alps for climbers to head to.
The Mt Cook Region
The most popular region is dominated by Mt Cook (3754m) and it is this peak most visitors aspire to. But within the Mt Cook and Westland National Parks are many more worthwhile objectives, most of which are typified by heavy glaciation and variable rock quality.
Several large glaciers ( the Tasman, Hooker, Mueller, Murchison, Godley, Fox and Franz) give access to the base of the mountains, or conversely some can be reached by fixed-wing plane or helicopter.
There are numerous guiding companies offering their services in this region. A list of New Zealand mountain guides can be found on the New Zealand Guides Association website.
The Department of Conservation has 'headquarters' situated at both the Mt Cook Village and the Fox and Franz Josef townships. These offer information on weather, climbing conditions and mountain huts.
Guide book: Alex Palman, Aoraki Mount Cook: A Guide For Mountaineers. (NZAC, 2001).
Recommended climbs: Zurbriggens Ridge of Mt Cook, Silberhorn Ridge of Mt Tasman, South Face of Douglas Peak, Torres/Tasman Traverse, West Ridge of Malte Brun, North Buttress of Mt Sefton.
The Mt Aspiring Region
This beautiful region is in contrast to the barren drama of the Aoraki/Mt Cook landscape. The mountains are accessed through mellow grassy valleys. Steep climbs lead up through the beech forest to reach the ice capped summits above, and the area is generally considered "user friendly."
The peaks lie within the Mount Aspiring National Park and again, information on huts, routes and weather can be had from the Department of Conservation headquarters situated in Wanaka and Makarora.
The highlight of the area is Mt Aspiring itself. This stunning asymmetrical pyramid can be climbed by a number of routes ranging from grade 2 plus to grade 5.
There a several guiding companies in the towns of Queenstown and Wanaka offering guided ascents of Mt Aspiring.
Guidebook: Allan Uren,The Mount Aspiring Region: a Guide for Mountaineers. (NZCA, 2001)
Recommended climbs: NW Ridge of Aspiring, SW Ridge of Aspiring, SE Ridge of Mt Barff, Mt Castor, Mt Pollux.
The Darran Mountains
Unlike climbing in more northern parts of the Southern Alps, mountaineering in "The Darrrans" is devoid of moraines or large glaciers. The peaks tend to be steep, technical and require the climber to be fast over a mixture of terrain. Routes on the larger peaks of the Northern Darrens are huge, with elevation gains of over 2500 metres.
"The Darrans" really come into their own with alpine rock-climbing, due to the fantastic friction of the "diorite" granite rock. The majority of the alpine-rock routes lie on slabby to near vertical ground and require good slab-climbing technique rather than brute strength.
The Fiordland National Park Headquarters in Te Anau has up to the minute information on weather, climbing and avalanche conditions.
Guidebook: Craig Jefferies, The Darren Mountains. (NZAC, 2006).
Recommended climbs: South East Ridge of Mt Tutoko,Talbot's Ladder/ Grave-Talbot Pass, East Ridge of Mitre Peak, Garden Trowel Direct (21) on Moirs Mate, Labyrinth(22) on Barrier Knob.
Sub-regions for Climbing in the Southern Alps of New Zealand
The three regions mentioned contain the best climbing in the Southern Alps but there sub-regions, many in the more remote reaches, offering exciting and varied alpinism. Some are in National Parks, but some lie within the precinct of Government Crown Land and do not have the support systems ( huts, scheduled radio services etc) offered by the parks.
Some of these regions: are: Nelson Lakes, Lewis Pass, Arthurs Pass, the Upper Rakaia and Rangitata Catchments, The Godley Glacier.
A number of these regions have their own guide books which can be obtained from the New Zealand Alpine Club Headquarters in Christchurch or from any of the climbing specialty shops in the main centres.
Which ever region of the Southern Alps of New Zealand the visiting climber chooses, he or she is guaranteed a quality alpine experience unique to this part of the world.
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